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Sewing Fleece Hints and Tips Please select from the following options:
There are many commercial patterns designed specifically for polar fleece. Look at the selection available.
Use the right tools. Jersey/Ballpoint needles are ideal as the end of the needle passes between the fibres rather than splitting them.
Fleece is a stretchy fabric, so the thread you choose must also have
stretch in it. A good quality polyester thread such as Gutermann or
Coats Drima will give good results. Preparation
Use 'with nap' layouts, and determine the right side of the fabric and be consistent in using it. Tug on the selvage and the fabric usually rolls to the right side. In many cases it doesn't matter which side you use as long as you are consistent. On a particularly bulky fleece it may be necessary to cut out single layers, in which case you wil need to use the fabric unfolded and reverse the pattern piece to get the second piece where two are needed.
Fusible interfacing is risky with fleece, you might melt the fabric.
Better to use a woven, perhaps applied with temporary adhesive before
sewing in place. Seam Allowance
A hot iron will melt your fleece. The fabric cannot really be pressed as you would for normal sewing, so other methods are preferable for dealing with springy seams (see below). In normal wear, fleece doesn't crease so pressing is unnecessary.
Conventional Machine Straight Stitch For a straight seam use a longer stitch length. Reduce the seam allowance to 0.6cm and zig zag together for neatness. Or, open seam allowance and top stitch from the right side (in the same direction as the original seam to prevent twisting) an equal distance from the original seam. Be sure to catch the seam allowance underneath in the top stitching. This opens up the seam and makes it appear pressed, even though you can't actually press it. Or, create a flat fell seam by sewing a normal 1.5cm straight seam. Trim one side to .5cm, and fold the other side over to cover it. Then topstitch from the right side ensuring you catch the larger seam allowance in the stitching. Trim the seam allowance close to the top stitching. Or, create a lapped seam by simply overlapping the edges and topstitch in place
Conventional Machine Zig Zag stitch Especially useful in very stretchy fleeces or areas where a straight stitch seam won't be stretchy enough. Use zig zag to sew a lapped seam together or simply butt two pieces together and sew along join with a wide width medium length zig zag. This can be a decorative finish and reduces bulk.
Use a four thread overlock for strength. Set differential feed to 1.8 or 2. This seam reduces bulk and gives good stretch to the seam. To create a flatlock seam use a three thread overlock with no tension in the needle, Sew, seam then pull pieces aside to make seam lie flat.
It's warm. It keeps you dry. It is easy to wash and dry. It is lightweight for its bulk and very comfortable to wear. You can wear several layers from microfleece up to the heaviest water repellant, wind blocking outer layer, adapting to any conditions you may encounter. It looks great. It looks great. Polar fleece is a very forgiving fabric. All manner of project from simple to complex are possible with even the most basic sewing experience. It doesn’t fray, blunt ended seams even look good and fastenings such as snaps are simple to apply. You can create original gifts for friends and family, even if you haven't sewn much before.
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